"Create a bonsai from seed is only possible if we know how to proceed."
This is perhaps the slowest way to get a bonsai quality, but in turn is the most pleasure is produced in the amateur.
Many begin the journey of growing trees in pots with this method, and most suffered a disappointment, failing to realize what his mind imagined. What went wrong?, What was missing? I'll try to explain, simply, what are the steps for this method a good bonsai .
This is perhaps the slowest way to get a bonsai quality, but in turn is the most pleasure is produced in the amateur.
Many begin the journey of growing trees in pots with this method, and most suffered a disappointment, failing to realize what his mind imagined. What went wrong?, What was missing? I'll try to explain, simply, what are the steps for this method a good bonsai .
1 .- SEED PROCUREMENT AND PRE TREATMENTS - GERM :
Most seeds are harvested in autumn, except in harsh climates, it is best to sow at the time and leave them outside until they germinate (late winter). If the weather allows, we will save in paper bags in a dark, dry place until next spring. There are cases where, if or whether we should plant them immediately , such as oaks, that his power germination declines rapidly. Some seeds must be soaked in warm water for 24-hs prior to the seeding or should be sanded if hard layers, for better germination. This technique is called scarification. Others, such as the acer should cold stratify these means, providing an artificial winter, about 5 or 6 weeks in the fridge, mixed with some inert substrate slightly damp.
2 .- SEEDING: Seeds can
sown in boxes, pots, etc. and depth of substrate should not be less than 7 or 8 cm. The land use should not cake (ventilation) is to drain excess water quickly irrigation, must maintain some moisture between waterings, and it is preferable that the sterilized to avoid problems with rot of seedlings because existing fungi. I will not give any "recipe" and that everyone should use the most familiar ground and handy, provided it complies with the above characteristics.
sow seeds at a depth more or less equal to twice its diameter at a distance of approximately 2 cm between each. The first irrigation should be done by dipping or spraying because otherwise we could move from its place. One important thing at this stage is that the substrate must never completely dry or be always saturated, it must remain moist.
3 .- FIRST CHIME AND ROOT PRUNING :
When seedlings have 3 or 4 true leaves (as the mother plant), it is time transplanted into pots individual and make the first root pruning (if the season allows, of course). The substrate used must meet the same requirements as used in planting. I carefully removed the seedling nursery and we of between 1 / 3 y 1 / 2 of the tap root and the tips of all others. He then planted in individual pots arranging the roots in a radial pattern. This aims at creating a " nebari " (roots surface) quality. We water until the excess water drain out of the drainage holes and place the pots in a place protected from wind and direct sun for a couple of weeks. Irrigation after transplanting is critical and should only be done when the soil begins to dry, never before. But if it is advisable to spray the cup several times a day.
Root Pruning pivoting
ideal shape to accommodate the roots
4 .- "fattening"
the second year, our seedlings will be able go to the floor or large pots, to accelerate growth and achieve a thick trunk in the shortest time possible. At this point we can wire the trunk (note, very loose) to give it some movement. We must be extremely careful with the wiring at this stage, as our tree to grow rapidly, the wire will start to dig, leaving ugly scars and very difficult to erase. This step (wiring) is not essential as we can give movement to the trunk by pruning.
the second year, our seedlings will be able go to the floor or large pots, to accelerate growth and achieve a thick trunk in the shortest time possible. At this point we can wire the trunk (note, very loose) to give it some movement. We must be extremely careful with the wiring at this stage, as our tree to grow rapidly, the wire will start to dig, leaving ugly scars and very difficult to erase. This step (wiring) is not essential as we can give movement to the trunk by pruning.
Now we can wire into the trunk or do so through pruning.
Here is an example of formation of the wiring trunk
If we are pruning, we must change the position planting
Being on the ground, the tree will develop rapidly and we should not prune it while in active growth period. What we are looking for is a thick trunk, and when more grow our tree, but fatter. When we reach the desired trunk diameter, it is time to prune (winter) and planted in a pot of training (ideally mud !!!). Prune their roots, always leaving the finest to ensure tree survival and greatly shorten thick. Cut the trunk at the desired height, preferably on a branch that will again tip. Also prune the existing branches, leaving only about 2 or 3 inches of those that use in the design of our future bonsai.
substituted the apex
After pruning
5 .-
CREATING THE COPA:
In the ground or in large pots our goal was to get a thick trunk with some movement at this stage should be the top of the outbreaks that appear after drastic pruning done. When they arise, we will select those that are useful in our design and remove the rest.
When the branches reach 15 to 20 cm in length, the wire very ground, giving them the tilt and searched own style. With this method we are only interested in their births, so that these branches fences along its length.
CREATING THE COPA:
In the ground or in large pots our goal was to get a thick trunk with some movement at this stage should be the top of the outbreaks that appear after drastic pruning done. When they arise, we will select those that are useful in our design and remove the rest.
When the branches reach 15 to 20 cm in length, the wire very ground, giving them the tilt and searched own style. With this method we are only interested in their births, so that these branches fences along its length.
Before wiring branches
wiring, their births. It is important to guide the tip up to increase their strength.
We must give some branches movement!
Upon reaching the desired thickness on the branches, begin to form secondary branches and branching fine. For this we pruned leaving only 3 or 4 cm in length. In this way the branch is split, forming secondary branches. Now when the latter reaches the desired thickness, turn to pruning.
When we get the desired thickness of branches, we can short to branch.
After this pruning .....
repeat this step with the secondary branches (expected to be fattened and then prune)
From Right now, we combine the wiring and pruning techniques, in order to obtain an abundant branching and good movement on it. When the new shoots reach 10 to 15 cm, cut leaving only 2 leafs. This technique, called pinch, should be practiced throughout the period of active growth of our tree.
AN EXAMPLE:
This Chinese elm is grown from a small cutting of only 5 cm, with the techniques described in this paper. The results are obvious and I only took 5 years (2 ground and 3 in pot), get this training.
4 cm in diameter above the nebari . Height 40cm
CLARIFICATIONS
1 .-. This is not the only way of obtaining a bonsai from seed, but everything explained in this article was widely seen by the author, achieving quality results in a relatively short time.
2 .- The techniques described are applied to deciduous and evergreen broad. In softwoods are used other methods that differ significantly the here explained.
3 .- The soil used with our plants must be composed of materials with a grain thick, as this allows a large oxygen in the roots and therefore a rapid development of our tree. In the final stages of creating fine branching, we use a substrate finer grain, avoiding in all cases the dust, which only prevents the proper drainage.
4 .- For optimal results in a short period of time, we must not neglect the subscriber or irrigation. They should be abundant during the period of the trunk and primary branches, and we should be using a very draining substrate (grain thick) and therefore with little capacity to maintain long moisture or nutrients provided by us.
5 .- This method is ideal for bonsai small to medium size.
6 .- We can also apply these techniques to material obtained from small cuttings.
Article published on the website of FENABRA and the magazine FELAB Inform @
